Glacier National Park
Located in northwest Montana, this national park is known as a backpacker paradise. Getting permits is a bit tricky, and you must remember to pack your bear spray as you are camping in bear country.
Glacier National Park
Key Features:
-Hundred of miles of trails
-Must take bear precautions
-Permits required, but can be reserved in advance
-Incredible wildflowers
-Abundant wildlife
- Crowded at peak season
-East side of park is less commercialized
- Stunning mountain and glacier views
-Unpredictable weather
-Waterfalls everywhere
-Hundred of miles of trails
-Must take bear precautions
-Permits required, but can be reserved in advance
-Incredible wildflowers
-Abundant wildlife
- Crowded at peak season
-East side of park is less commercialized
- Stunning mountain and glacier views
-Unpredictable weather
-Waterfalls everywhere
Overview & Trip PlanningFor those of you Midwesterners like ourselves, planning a significant road trip that ends in back country camping in bear country takes some research and coordination. We meticulously planned and prepped, organized and reorganized for weeks to ensure we could travel multiple days in the car, visit some traditional tourist locations, and then end up in Montana with plenty of gear and food for multiple back country nights. Our favorite final system was plastic see-through totes: one for each person's gear and one for each person's food and snacks. We color coordinated name labels and stacked them in the truck bed. At hotels, we dried out our gear and did laundry, then reorganized the totes and on we went. This allowed us to each pack our backpacks from items in our tote at each trip and kept us very organized in and out of hotels from location to location. Bear spray and food caches were new to us. We put a lot of research into what to expect in bear country and I'm sure my mother-in-law had a few restless nights over the whole ordeal, but it turns out following protocols and guidelines recommended by the forest service should keep you from looking like a tasty morsel to Mr. Bear. A few good choruses of "Whoa, Bear!" when entering densely foliated areas seemed to do the trick. Honestly, the worst part was not being able to snack anywhere you wanted and having to prepare dinner in designated areas. This is very unlike Indiana camping and was strange and a bit of a downer. Hanging and rehanging your food bag is no fun, so coordinating everyone's dinner and appetite needs is the biggest frustration in bear country. Once we saw the first bear, our anxiety was relieved, and our angst to make sure we didn't leave Montana without being able to tell a bear story was over. When considering how early to make reservations, we began calling and confirming dates in November before our July trip and found that most places closer to the park or inside the park were booked by December. Free reservations and no cancellation fees really meant that people blocked off chunks of time early and then adjusted later. We found that backcountry permits were helpful, but not required in every spot. If you can get to a ranger's station early and have several locations in mind, reserving a spot the day of can be a positive experience with Glacier's reservation system. The rangers are a wealth of information for trail ideas beyond the traditionally popular, known ones. |
Belly River Area
The Belly River was our starting off points on our Glacier visit, but we were immediately impressed with the vistas and scale of this area. It is one of the lighter traveled areas of the park, but still had a fair level of traffic. We saw several parties each day of hiking and every campsite we visited was full. The trail users in this area were all backpackers, the lack of day hikers made it feel a little more remote and less traveled. This river valley only has a few entrances, Red Gap Pass area / Ptarmigan Trail, Chief Mountain trail head, and Indiana Pass, and they all require a good long hike. We found the trail to be clear and passable, but muddy due to the almost daily rain showers. The wet environment was a breeding ground for mosquitoes, so do not leave your head nets and DEET at home.
From the Chief Mountain trail head it is a long hike down to the first campsite and ranger station. We found the log cabin and pasture area that made the range station very scenic and it in no way took way from the back country mountain feel. This area was full of wildflowers and was absolutely picture perfect. The wide expanse of flowers with the mountains jutting to the sky was breathtaking. The trail more or less makes a v and allows the hiker to travel up one drainage toward lower and upper Elizabeth Lake and toward Red Gap Pass and the other trail will direct the hikers up the Belly River drainage and toward Lakes Cosley and Glenn and eventually Indian pass. Having visited all the main lakes in this system, I can stay they are all spectacular and everyone in my family has a personal favorite.
The campsite and eating areas were all similar in setup. Most trails have the iconic Glacier suspension bridges, but the crossing at the mouth of Lake Cosley was a ford. This made us nervous at first because we did not know what to expect, but once we had completed it it was one of the highlights of the day. The park service had a cable to hold on to and it was a mater of putting on your water shoes and rolling up your pants and wadding across. The current was no too bad either. Our ten year-old enjoyed the crossing even though he had to take his pant off, as the water almost came up to his upper thigh.
From the Chief Mountain trail head it is a long hike down to the first campsite and ranger station. We found the log cabin and pasture area that made the range station very scenic and it in no way took way from the back country mountain feel. This area was full of wildflowers and was absolutely picture perfect. The wide expanse of flowers with the mountains jutting to the sky was breathtaking. The trail more or less makes a v and allows the hiker to travel up one drainage toward lower and upper Elizabeth Lake and toward Red Gap Pass and the other trail will direct the hikers up the Belly River drainage and toward Lakes Cosley and Glenn and eventually Indian pass. Having visited all the main lakes in this system, I can stay they are all spectacular and everyone in my family has a personal favorite.
The campsite and eating areas were all similar in setup. Most trails have the iconic Glacier suspension bridges, but the crossing at the mouth of Lake Cosley was a ford. This made us nervous at first because we did not know what to expect, but once we had completed it it was one of the highlights of the day. The park service had a cable to hold on to and it was a mater of putting on your water shoes and rolling up your pants and wadding across. The current was no too bad either. Our ten year-old enjoyed the crossing even though he had to take his pant off, as the water almost came up to his upper thigh.
Rose Creek Trail to Otokomi Lake
Hiking up the Rose Creek Trail to Otokomi Lake's subalpine landscape was the most diverse hike we had in Glacier. Climbing up the switch backs of the valley, into old wildfire burnt remnants, past waterfall after waterfall, and then finally scrambling the scree fields to the reward of clear blue waters of Lake Otokomi and cutthroat trout filled streams really made this hike interesting at every turn. The altitude and quick climb left me pulling up the rear, but there was so much to see and stop for that the sightseeing, not the altitude, slowed us down. I'm not sure if this was my son's favorite trail, but he certainly eagerly led the way to see what was around the next turn.
Upon arrival at the campsite, we explored to find an odd arrangement of the camp. There seems to be a lack of planning on the layout of the sites, food areas, and hot spots to view the lake with a maze of small trails near the shore. I felt like I was in a labyrinth at times and that my son might take off to see the lake and never return. If it wasn't for the bears, I would have left a trail of breadcrumbs like Hansel and Gretel.
Upon arrival at the campsite, we explored to find an odd arrangement of the camp. There seems to be a lack of planning on the layout of the sites, food areas, and hot spots to view the lake with a maze of small trails near the shore. I felt like I was in a labyrinth at times and that my son might take off to see the lake and never return. If it wasn't for the bears, I would have left a trail of breadcrumbs like Hansel and Gretel.
Gunsight Pass Trail to Gunsight Lake
Starting at the Jackson Glacier Overlook parking area should have been an enormous red flag to the crowded conditions we would find along this trail. If you are looking for solitude and hoping to see some wildlife... be prepared to see mammals of the 2 legged variety most. Thank goodness the meadow opening up to Gunsight Lake was well worth the trail crowds and thank goodness only 6 spots are available for camping. When trail runners ruin your view of the moose ahead, it's hard to be patient. Next time we will look for trails that are not located directly off of Going to the Sun Road.
The trail begins with a long, steep downhill which meant a long steep uphill on the return, but somehow it didn't feel as long on the way out. Some highlights of the hike up to the lake include views of the outstanding Jackson Glacier and side trail to towering Florence Falls. Florence Falls offers a bushwacking adventure and our 11 year old sun was swallowed up in the tall overgrown plants. Once past the falls trail, the trail becomes much less crowded and the only remaining hikers are either headed for the night or up and over the pass. Very few people hung around the lake past noon.
The best part of the hike was our concierge just outside of the campground. A wild-eyed mountain goat met us on the path, ushering us in to the lake. It was a beautiful meadow and we were delighted until he became slightly aggressive and let us know this was his stomping ground. We proceeded with caution, but he gave up the intensity quickly with a side-eye and a harrumph.
During dinner a couple that had just come over the pass indicated a momma bear and her cubs were climbing the trail. Sure enough, we watched as not 1, but 3 cubs made their way up the pass trail. They were headed away from camp, but that night, I'll admit I was more than a bit nervous heading to the outhouse.
The trail begins with a long, steep downhill which meant a long steep uphill on the return, but somehow it didn't feel as long on the way out. Some highlights of the hike up to the lake include views of the outstanding Jackson Glacier and side trail to towering Florence Falls. Florence Falls offers a bushwacking adventure and our 11 year old sun was swallowed up in the tall overgrown plants. Once past the falls trail, the trail becomes much less crowded and the only remaining hikers are either headed for the night or up and over the pass. Very few people hung around the lake past noon.
The best part of the hike was our concierge just outside of the campground. A wild-eyed mountain goat met us on the path, ushering us in to the lake. It was a beautiful meadow and we were delighted until he became slightly aggressive and let us know this was his stomping ground. We proceeded with caution, but he gave up the intensity quickly with a side-eye and a harrumph.
During dinner a couple that had just come over the pass indicated a momma bear and her cubs were climbing the trail. Sure enough, we watched as not 1, but 3 cubs made their way up the pass trail. They were headed away from camp, but that night, I'll admit I was more than a bit nervous heading to the outhouse.
Two Medicine Lake: Ferry to Upper Two Medicine Lake
Two Medicine Lake was sort of a last minute choice of ours as a way to shave off a few miles for our son after double booking one of our days with 2 hikes; however, it ended up being a great choice for several reasons. Taking the small ferry across the lake to begin the trail was something new to our hiking repertoire. We hiked in right as the sun was sinking behind the mountain and the sunshine on the pink spirea was simply amazing. This was a quick trail and was slightly muddy from recent rain, but the ponds and plant life inviting us up the trail to the lake was a real treat.
A short side trail takes hikers to the double waterfalls of Twin Falls, which made for a good break and snack spot. You can get right up on these falls and really feel the power of the water as it crescendos right over the edge. This would be a great day hike for young kids or visitors looking for a day adventure within their skill set.
As the last hikers in the the campground, our spot was not directly looking at the lake, but the waterfront was so inviting everyone ended up storytelling and goat spotting with the binoculars until the evening rain shower forced us inside. This was a very accessible area and we were surprised that it was not as crowded as some spots.
Timing the ferry pick up is the only thing to be cautious of on this trail. We ended up pushing out from Upper Two Medicine in a half an hour to meet the ferry so that we didn't have to wait for the 2 hour layover. The wide and well-traveled path helped us hit a personal record.
A short side trail takes hikers to the double waterfalls of Twin Falls, which made for a good break and snack spot. You can get right up on these falls and really feel the power of the water as it crescendos right over the edge. This would be a great day hike for young kids or visitors looking for a day adventure within their skill set.
As the last hikers in the the campground, our spot was not directly looking at the lake, but the waterfront was so inviting everyone ended up storytelling and goat spotting with the binoculars until the evening rain shower forced us inside. This was a very accessible area and we were surprised that it was not as crowded as some spots.
Timing the ferry pick up is the only thing to be cautious of on this trail. We ended up pushing out from Upper Two Medicine in a half an hour to meet the ferry so that we didn't have to wait for the 2 hour layover. The wide and well-traveled path helped us hit a personal record.
Going to the Sun Road
There is much written about Going to the Sun Road and we felt very ready to tackle to the drive as a 1/2 day adventure. However...no matter how crowded we thought it would be, nothing quite gets you ready to reenter civilization after being in the backcountry than being immediately immersed into the bottle necks and rubber necks of tourism at its finest. The road is breathtakingly beautiful with amazing vistas and tremendous scope, but dealing with the traffic almost makes this journey not worth it. I felt sorry for the people who visit Glacier and think they have a remote encounter with the natural world on this road because there is so much more to Glacier than what they see.
With that being said, the engineering feat and natural features are absolutely impressive. We tried to prepare by purchasing a map of mile markers and descriptions published by Jake Bramante of hike734.com. We marked areas we wanted to stop and followed the mile markers to make sure we didn't miss them. There is so much to do along this route (and in 2 directions) that you simply could not accomplish it all in a day.
Our favorite stops included: 2 Dog Flatts, St. Mary Overlook, Sunrift Gorge and Baring Falls, the Oberlin Bend, Birdwoman Falls Overlook, Haystack Falls, the Triple Arches, the Weeping Wall, Trail of the Cedars, McDonald Creek (Platform Deck), Lake McDonald Lodge, and Apgar. We did not hike anything significant off of the road that day as our goal was to get to West Glacier for our next backcountry trip.
Our advice is to take a picnic lunch and plan to hangout along the route and enjoy the scenery. The best part of the trip is the unexpectedness of each location, so just be prepared to want to stop and enjoy everything you can. The handmade rock arches, tunnels, and bridge work are worth a close up view, as are the views of the various creeks and waterfalls along the way. I, personally, liked McDonald Creek's wild and rough rapids and deep pools. I could have watched the water rush by all day long. If you aren't in a rush for time, plan a full day each direction and get out and hike as much of it as you can. Yes, it will be crowded, but for most people visiting Glacier, this is all they do.
With that being said, the engineering feat and natural features are absolutely impressive. We tried to prepare by purchasing a map of mile markers and descriptions published by Jake Bramante of hike734.com. We marked areas we wanted to stop and followed the mile markers to make sure we didn't miss them. There is so much to do along this route (and in 2 directions) that you simply could not accomplish it all in a day.
Our favorite stops included: 2 Dog Flatts, St. Mary Overlook, Sunrift Gorge and Baring Falls, the Oberlin Bend, Birdwoman Falls Overlook, Haystack Falls, the Triple Arches, the Weeping Wall, Trail of the Cedars, McDonald Creek (Platform Deck), Lake McDonald Lodge, and Apgar. We did not hike anything significant off of the road that day as our goal was to get to West Glacier for our next backcountry trip.
Our advice is to take a picnic lunch and plan to hangout along the route and enjoy the scenery. The best part of the trip is the unexpectedness of each location, so just be prepared to want to stop and enjoy everything you can. The handmade rock arches, tunnels, and bridge work are worth a close up view, as are the views of the various creeks and waterfalls along the way. I, personally, liked McDonald Creek's wild and rough rapids and deep pools. I could have watched the water rush by all day long. If you aren't in a rush for time, plan a full day each direction and get out and hike as much of it as you can. Yes, it will be crowded, but for most people visiting Glacier, this is all they do.
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