Chugach National Forest & Kenai Penninsula
Crow Pass
Crow Pass
Key Features:
-moves from forest, to alpine, to pass & glacier
-Raven glacier views
-opportunity to camp or rent cabin at the pass
-wildflowers
-day hike or multi-day hiking opportunities
Key Features:
-moves from forest, to alpine, to pass & glacier
-Raven glacier views
-opportunity to camp or rent cabin at the pass
-wildflowers
-day hike or multi-day hiking opportunities
Crow Pass
Crow’s Pass is truly the Alaskan experience! This trail is part of the classic Iditarod race and gives you epic views from sea level to mountain peak and glacier, all in one day. Our plan for the day was to start at the trailhead in Girdwood, hike up the pass and view forest service cabin, visit Raven Glacier, and then return to the car. It was to be an 8 mile out and back (up and down) hike that we anticipated would take us 4-5 hours.
With sore legs from the previous day’s ascent up Rainbow Peak and the jet lag from the long day of travel, we welcomed the chance to stretch out our legs and get our stiff bodies moving. We began in the lush, vibrant green valley and immediately began our switchbacks gaining elevation in a hurry. Our car in parked at the trailhead became a speck in the distance and the views back toward the Turnagain Arm mountains gave us instance gratification for our efforts. A sense of excitement filled our spirits and we pressed on with adventurous fervor.
The snow dotted mountain tops offered a stark contrast between the blue cloud filled skies and lush vegetation of the valley. A prettier scene surely can’t be found anywhere! It amazed me how immediate the vastness and scope of the Alaskan wilderness can be had by hikers within 24 hours of arrival to the 49th state. I did not expect such deep wilderness right outside of Anchorage. I can’t wait to see what even deeper wilderness experiences are to be had in the weeks to come.
Another favorite trail experience of ours is to find as many wildflowers as we can on our hikes, and little surprises popped up for us all along the way. Purples, pinks, yellows, oranges, whites, and magentas blanketed the mountain side. Most of the flowers were low to the ground, but their daintiness, crisp detail and perfection were so shocking. You would think in such a brutal environment with stiff winds, snow, and rain that it would be a challenge to grow and thrive, but these pieces of art looked undisturbed and fresh as we made our way up the mountain side. Many hikers may blaze right past and not notice the immense variety of fauna at their feet, but a careful traveler can take advantage to notice the huge variety of wildflowers hidden among the scree.
Our feet traversed a variety of conditions as we made our way higher and higher in elevation. The dirt path changed into a rocky path, which transitioned to scree, then large rocky passes. By the time we topped the mountain we were crossing snow pack and harrowing sections where we post holed through snow that covered small streams of snow melt headed down the mountain. The path was always very evident, you just had to watch your footing and placement.
During our long climb, I was amazed at how vast the visual field was and how tricky it was for my eyes to shift between the close watchfulness of my footing and raising my head to take in the enormous vista ahead and around me. It was dizzying to go between the two sights. It is almost like your brain finds it challenging to navigate the immensity of its surroundings. It is almost impossible to take in the entire 360 degree panorama at one time. Your eyes scan for something to focus in on, but there is so much stimulus,
your brain struggles to hone in on one specific point.
The exciting part of hiking up is the both he known and unknown nature of the hike. It is easy to follow the trail you will be climbing as it ascends the mountain, but exactly where the mountains break and you will enter the true pass remains a mystery until you finally view the cabin sitting in the pass. From the pass you can actually look back down the mountain and see the entirety of the trail, but on the way up it isn’t as intuitive as you might think.
Once you are nearing the pass, raging waterfalls and streams of snow melt keep the hike interesting and give you plenty of things to watch and take pictures of. Traversing these areas offers just a slight challenge and thrill, while clearly being safe enough for the masses of people that day hike it. We hike the Monday after Father’s Day, and found around 12 cars in the lot and perhaps 15 groups of hikers along the way. Some had overnighted and begun from the other side of the pass.
Once we finally peaked the pass, the vista was just overwhelming. It was more than I had even expected from Alaska, and I had quite high expectations. We found ourselves spending about an hour and a half exploring the area and visiting the glacier.
One standout moment for the day was venturing on over the pass to Raven Glacier. It was off trail and rugged, but to walk over and touch the blue ice was irresistible. It was ridiculously hard and you could hear the water running deep below the surface. It's not safe to venture onto the glacier, so after getting a feel for it we started the return trip down.
The return trip down took us about half as much time, but was rough on the knees. We opted to go up the longer up (the right side), but returned down the steeper, shorter Mine Trail. After icing my knees that night, I’m not sure I would take the steep way down next time. I never felt unsafe, but it was a lot of watching each step and focusing on placement. The reward was to get to hike right up on the waterfalls that were crashing down from the pass.
I think Crow's Pass was my favorite hike in all of the Kenai this trip. The journey from lush valley to high alpine tundra and snow in one day was such a fulfilling experience all in one day. I never felt unsafe or lost, but I definitely got an intense challenge.
With sore legs from the previous day’s ascent up Rainbow Peak and the jet lag from the long day of travel, we welcomed the chance to stretch out our legs and get our stiff bodies moving. We began in the lush, vibrant green valley and immediately began our switchbacks gaining elevation in a hurry. Our car in parked at the trailhead became a speck in the distance and the views back toward the Turnagain Arm mountains gave us instance gratification for our efforts. A sense of excitement filled our spirits and we pressed on with adventurous fervor.
The snow dotted mountain tops offered a stark contrast between the blue cloud filled skies and lush vegetation of the valley. A prettier scene surely can’t be found anywhere! It amazed me how immediate the vastness and scope of the Alaskan wilderness can be had by hikers within 24 hours of arrival to the 49th state. I did not expect such deep wilderness right outside of Anchorage. I can’t wait to see what even deeper wilderness experiences are to be had in the weeks to come.
Another favorite trail experience of ours is to find as many wildflowers as we can on our hikes, and little surprises popped up for us all along the way. Purples, pinks, yellows, oranges, whites, and magentas blanketed the mountain side. Most of the flowers were low to the ground, but their daintiness, crisp detail and perfection were so shocking. You would think in such a brutal environment with stiff winds, snow, and rain that it would be a challenge to grow and thrive, but these pieces of art looked undisturbed and fresh as we made our way up the mountain side. Many hikers may blaze right past and not notice the immense variety of fauna at their feet, but a careful traveler can take advantage to notice the huge variety of wildflowers hidden among the scree.
Our feet traversed a variety of conditions as we made our way higher and higher in elevation. The dirt path changed into a rocky path, which transitioned to scree, then large rocky passes. By the time we topped the mountain we were crossing snow pack and harrowing sections where we post holed through snow that covered small streams of snow melt headed down the mountain. The path was always very evident, you just had to watch your footing and placement.
During our long climb, I was amazed at how vast the visual field was and how tricky it was for my eyes to shift between the close watchfulness of my footing and raising my head to take in the enormous vista ahead and around me. It was dizzying to go between the two sights. It is almost like your brain finds it challenging to navigate the immensity of its surroundings. It is almost impossible to take in the entire 360 degree panorama at one time. Your eyes scan for something to focus in on, but there is so much stimulus,
your brain struggles to hone in on one specific point.
The exciting part of hiking up is the both he known and unknown nature of the hike. It is easy to follow the trail you will be climbing as it ascends the mountain, but exactly where the mountains break and you will enter the true pass remains a mystery until you finally view the cabin sitting in the pass. From the pass you can actually look back down the mountain and see the entirety of the trail, but on the way up it isn’t as intuitive as you might think.
Once you are nearing the pass, raging waterfalls and streams of snow melt keep the hike interesting and give you plenty of things to watch and take pictures of. Traversing these areas offers just a slight challenge and thrill, while clearly being safe enough for the masses of people that day hike it. We hike the Monday after Father’s Day, and found around 12 cars in the lot and perhaps 15 groups of hikers along the way. Some had overnighted and begun from the other side of the pass.
Once we finally peaked the pass, the vista was just overwhelming. It was more than I had even expected from Alaska, and I had quite high expectations. We found ourselves spending about an hour and a half exploring the area and visiting the glacier.
One standout moment for the day was venturing on over the pass to Raven Glacier. It was off trail and rugged, but to walk over and touch the blue ice was irresistible. It was ridiculously hard and you could hear the water running deep below the surface. It's not safe to venture onto the glacier, so after getting a feel for it we started the return trip down.
The return trip down took us about half as much time, but was rough on the knees. We opted to go up the longer up (the right side), but returned down the steeper, shorter Mine Trail. After icing my knees that night, I’m not sure I would take the steep way down next time. I never felt unsafe, but it was a lot of watching each step and focusing on placement. The reward was to get to hike right up on the waterfalls that were crashing down from the pass.
I think Crow's Pass was my favorite hike in all of the Kenai this trip. The journey from lush valley to high alpine tundra and snow in one day was such a fulfilling experience all in one day. I never felt unsafe or lost, but I definitely got an intense challenge.
Rainbow Peak
Rainbow Peak
Key Features:
-steep hike
-views of Turnagain Arm
-close to Anchorage
-can turnaround at any point you wish
Key Features:
-steep hike
-views of Turnagain Arm
-close to Anchorage
-can turnaround at any point you wish
Just south of Anchorage off the Seward Highway is the entrance and trailhead to a challenging day hike straight up the side of Rainbow Peak. While this trail is only marked at 4 miles, consider most of those footsteps straight up! Take plenty of water and watch the weather conditions as your footholds will depend on having the best chance of solid footing as possible.
The trail begins at sea level, right off the shore of the Turnagain Arm and meanders through a Young beech wood forest. Your will cross over a small snow melt creek and water feature fairly early in the hike. The trail is wide and well worn and begins as a soft dirt pack for the first .5 mile or so. Along the way you will have several opportunities to peak out at the bay and will see the highway change perspective and the cars become specks below you.
The trail gradually shifts to more rock and gradation and you enter a series of switchbacks to take you up to the trail connector at which point the trail quickly changes into a quite difficult ascent. At first, it felt as if I was climbing a rock ladder- reaching hand over hand nearly vertical. The loose scree was hard to judge and I found myself looking for any opportunity to hold on to the base of a tree or root.
You are instantly rewarded for your laborious effort as the vistas open up and the photo opportunities give you everything you’d hoped and more of the Alaska of your dreams. The bird and wildlife viewing also improved the higher we ascended. At one point Rock Hopper let out a wail that we were above a bald eagle, and we reveled in watching it soar in the strong winds.
We continued in this fashion- scrambling rocks, swichbacking, and taking in the sights little by little. Each new knoll looked as if you were approaching the peak, only to be fooled again and more slow climbing. Eventually, the peak presents herself and you can see your destination in all its craggy scree before you. At this point, we saw a momma bear and her 3 cubs climbing the valley over and we scoped her in the binoculars and watched the cubs play. They reminded me of how effortlessly they can handle this rough terrain.
The return down, while quicker, is as harrowing as the ascent, and much harder on the body. Slips and missteps abound and you really had to watch each foot placement for safety and security. It was physically easier, but required intense focus all the way. Upon reaching the connector at the Turnagain Trail, the path becomes a quick hike out and is easy and enjoyable, a nice reward to a difficult day.
The trail begins at sea level, right off the shore of the Turnagain Arm and meanders through a Young beech wood forest. Your will cross over a small snow melt creek and water feature fairly early in the hike. The trail is wide and well worn and begins as a soft dirt pack for the first .5 mile or so. Along the way you will have several opportunities to peak out at the bay and will see the highway change perspective and the cars become specks below you.
The trail gradually shifts to more rock and gradation and you enter a series of switchbacks to take you up to the trail connector at which point the trail quickly changes into a quite difficult ascent. At first, it felt as if I was climbing a rock ladder- reaching hand over hand nearly vertical. The loose scree was hard to judge and I found myself looking for any opportunity to hold on to the base of a tree or root.
You are instantly rewarded for your laborious effort as the vistas open up and the photo opportunities give you everything you’d hoped and more of the Alaska of your dreams. The bird and wildlife viewing also improved the higher we ascended. At one point Rock Hopper let out a wail that we were above a bald eagle, and we reveled in watching it soar in the strong winds.
We continued in this fashion- scrambling rocks, swichbacking, and taking in the sights little by little. Each new knoll looked as if you were approaching the peak, only to be fooled again and more slow climbing. Eventually, the peak presents herself and you can see your destination in all its craggy scree before you. At this point, we saw a momma bear and her 3 cubs climbing the valley over and we scoped her in the binoculars and watched the cubs play. They reminded me of how effortlessly they can handle this rough terrain.
The return down, while quicker, is as harrowing as the ascent, and much harder on the body. Slips and missteps abound and you really had to watch each foot placement for safety and security. It was physically easier, but required intense focus all the way. Upon reaching the connector at the Turnagain Trail, the path becomes a quick hike out and is easy and enjoyable, a nice reward to a difficult day.
Crescent Lake
Crescent Lake
Key Features:
-heavily used trail for hikers & bikers
-follows the creek into the lake
-foliage & wildlife variety
-interesting bridge work
Key Features:
-heavily used trail for hikers & bikers
-follows the creek into the lake
-foliage & wildlife variety
-interesting bridge work
Crescent Lake
Just outside of Cooper Landing is a very popular, well used trail system connecting hikers to Crescent Lake. A paved and maintained road takes about 10 minutes to navigate until reaching the parking area. Alaska backcountry camp sites are nearly all equipped with outhouses and trail information, nicer than any we have come across in other states.
The beginning of the hike ascends a soft, pine forest floor along side Crescent Creek. After having spent the two previous days in rocky, steep ascents, we were appreciative of the gentle slope and soft footbed on our sore feet. The rich colors of deep red pine needles, dark brown trunks, and lush green ferns made the environment inviting and gave a sense of security. The sounds of the rushing creek wafted in and out as we snaked our way up the valley. If not for the sneak peaks of mountain vistas, this hike a almost a Midwest feel to it.
Midway to the cabin, the trail ventures along terraces of steeper edges and hikers hug the inside line as the mountain side drops away to the creek below. The day we hiked, the creek had a solid flowing stream full of snow melt and clearly sent the message to us that crossing without a bridge was out of the option. We watched as water swirled and rocketed over the boulders and tore its way through the valley.
The highlights of this trail were the two elaborate bridges built to assist hikers over the raging summer melts. Serious effort was taken with beautiful steel support beams that arched up and over the turbulent waters. We took a rest period at the halfway bridge and soaked in the sun as the sounds of the waters below us lulled us into tranquility.
As you near the lake, the trees open up and hikers move into an open grass area with wide open views of the mountain sides. We scanned for bears and goats, but did not see any on our way in. Fresh bear scat on the trail had us keeping our eyes peeled and shouting out our chorus of “Woah, Bear!” We did see numerous varieties of birds and squirrels curious about our presence.
Finally, we turned the corner and spied the final bridge at the foot of Crescent Lake and the tell tale welcome signs of the forest service. Numerous campsites were interspersed around the foot of the lake and prime fishing spots where we are told the grayling spawn in early summer were scouted out. We noted the regulations on when and where you were allowed to fish these graylings.
The cabin was a welcomed sight after three hard days of Alaskan backpacking and we quickly made our way inside and unloaded the gear off our tired shoulders. In an hour we had the stove singing her tune and crackling for us as we nestled into our quaint home away from home for a few days.
After a warm meal, we scouted out the surrounding area and found a maze of trails connecting the beach to the other backcountry campsites. Exploring the beach, we got a good view of Crescent Lake. Steep peaks still dotted in snow met the waters edge and the crescent shape made beaconed us to explore more around the edge of the pines.
After a goodnight’s sleep warmed by the fire and drummed by a gentle rain on the metal roof, we awoke to a light rain typical of the Kenai Penninsula summer. The men got to work sawing firewood to keep out the chill and I wrote trail logs of our adventures while it was fresh in my mind. Reading the journal entries of other cabin guests told of other adventures and things we might expect to see while here at the cabin. It added to a sense of connectivity in these isolated activities. It really makes you feel good to know other people respect and appreciate Mother Nature as much as you do.
The weather in this area of the Kenai is unpredictable, as most mountain climates are. Expect changing conditions, precipitation, wind, and chill. Layer up and don’t let the weather ruin your plans or scare you away. True Alaskans get out there and attack the day regardless. This was our experience. We struggled to find a chunk of time in the row boat that had the perfect conditions, but this didn’t stop us from giving it a go.
The lake is known to produce some of the largest dolly varden in the state, and it did not disappoint. Early in the morning of our first attempt at fishing we were able to reel in a small 4 inch fish. After battling and casting hundred of attempts, my son was finally rewarded with the catch of a lifetime, reeling in an 18 inch beautiful specimen. The large dorsal fin spread out over the long back of the shining grey fish and he posed for a quick picture as evidence before releasing it back to its home to live another day.
There were also numerous ducks and magpies living on the creek and we enjoyed seeing them motor around the area, momma duck with all her ducklings in a row. The magpie family just howled at us when we approached, as if so insulted that we had found their hideout. Their long sleek tails made them majestic and regal looking. They quickly became our favorite cabin visitors. A squirrel family behind our cabin happily shared their home with us and we watched them munch their lunch right outside our cabin window.
Crescent Lake Cabin did not disappoint. It made quite a pleasant impression on us, as it does with all visitors according to the logbook.
The beginning of the hike ascends a soft, pine forest floor along side Crescent Creek. After having spent the two previous days in rocky, steep ascents, we were appreciative of the gentle slope and soft footbed on our sore feet. The rich colors of deep red pine needles, dark brown trunks, and lush green ferns made the environment inviting and gave a sense of security. The sounds of the rushing creek wafted in and out as we snaked our way up the valley. If not for the sneak peaks of mountain vistas, this hike a almost a Midwest feel to it.
Midway to the cabin, the trail ventures along terraces of steeper edges and hikers hug the inside line as the mountain side drops away to the creek below. The day we hiked, the creek had a solid flowing stream full of snow melt and clearly sent the message to us that crossing without a bridge was out of the option. We watched as water swirled and rocketed over the boulders and tore its way through the valley.
The highlights of this trail were the two elaborate bridges built to assist hikers over the raging summer melts. Serious effort was taken with beautiful steel support beams that arched up and over the turbulent waters. We took a rest period at the halfway bridge and soaked in the sun as the sounds of the waters below us lulled us into tranquility.
As you near the lake, the trees open up and hikers move into an open grass area with wide open views of the mountain sides. We scanned for bears and goats, but did not see any on our way in. Fresh bear scat on the trail had us keeping our eyes peeled and shouting out our chorus of “Woah, Bear!” We did see numerous varieties of birds and squirrels curious about our presence.
Finally, we turned the corner and spied the final bridge at the foot of Crescent Lake and the tell tale welcome signs of the forest service. Numerous campsites were interspersed around the foot of the lake and prime fishing spots where we are told the grayling spawn in early summer were scouted out. We noted the regulations on when and where you were allowed to fish these graylings.
The cabin was a welcomed sight after three hard days of Alaskan backpacking and we quickly made our way inside and unloaded the gear off our tired shoulders. In an hour we had the stove singing her tune and crackling for us as we nestled into our quaint home away from home for a few days.
After a warm meal, we scouted out the surrounding area and found a maze of trails connecting the beach to the other backcountry campsites. Exploring the beach, we got a good view of Crescent Lake. Steep peaks still dotted in snow met the waters edge and the crescent shape made beaconed us to explore more around the edge of the pines.
After a goodnight’s sleep warmed by the fire and drummed by a gentle rain on the metal roof, we awoke to a light rain typical of the Kenai Penninsula summer. The men got to work sawing firewood to keep out the chill and I wrote trail logs of our adventures while it was fresh in my mind. Reading the journal entries of other cabin guests told of other adventures and things we might expect to see while here at the cabin. It added to a sense of connectivity in these isolated activities. It really makes you feel good to know other people respect and appreciate Mother Nature as much as you do.
The weather in this area of the Kenai is unpredictable, as most mountain climates are. Expect changing conditions, precipitation, wind, and chill. Layer up and don’t let the weather ruin your plans or scare you away. True Alaskans get out there and attack the day regardless. This was our experience. We struggled to find a chunk of time in the row boat that had the perfect conditions, but this didn’t stop us from giving it a go.
The lake is known to produce some of the largest dolly varden in the state, and it did not disappoint. Early in the morning of our first attempt at fishing we were able to reel in a small 4 inch fish. After battling and casting hundred of attempts, my son was finally rewarded with the catch of a lifetime, reeling in an 18 inch beautiful specimen. The large dorsal fin spread out over the long back of the shining grey fish and he posed for a quick picture as evidence before releasing it back to its home to live another day.
There were also numerous ducks and magpies living on the creek and we enjoyed seeing them motor around the area, momma duck with all her ducklings in a row. The magpie family just howled at us when we approached, as if so insulted that we had found their hideout. Their long sleek tails made them majestic and regal looking. They quickly became our favorite cabin visitors. A squirrel family behind our cabin happily shared their home with us and we watched them munch their lunch right outside our cabin window.
Crescent Lake Cabin did not disappoint. It made quite a pleasant impression on us, as it does with all visitors according to the logbook.
Russian River Falls Trail
Russian River Falls
Key Features:
-opportunity to view salmon run
-observation deck at the falls
-high bear aware area
-easy, wide trail
Key Features:
-opportunity to view salmon run
-observation deck at the falls
-high bear aware area
-easy, wide trail
Russian River Falls
One night after whitewater rafting, we were restless from sitting all day and our interest had been peaked in the Russian River Sockeyed Salmon Run. During the day we had floated through the confluence of the Kenai River and Russian Rivers, where salmon coming back from the sea to spawn and thus die, all take a right and head up the mouth of the Russian River to their original spawning grounds. There, lining the right edge of the river, were HUNDREDS of anglers, each trying to snag a salmon in the mouth and fill their freezers with some of the premieres salmon in the region.
Salmon do not actually eat on their way to spawn, so the fishermen essentially try to land a hook in the mouth of a salmon headed up stream. They wade in the 40 degree water with their hip waders on and throw a weighted line into the water, letting it get pulled by the current for about 15 feet before casting it out again. Over and over they make this fluid motion, hoping to time their cast just right to snag a salmon.
Each year a license will allow anglers a set number of salmon per day, dependent on the number of fish calculated to be running through a variety of means. Fish are counted by weirs placed in the water that calculate the number and type of salmon, as well as trained fisheries managers who watch specific locations for evidence of the runs.
There are 5 type of salmon: king, sockeye, coho, silver, and chum. We happened to be in Alaska during the first run of sockeye salmon and the locals were in a frenzy, all jockeying for their prime spots. Parking along the Sterling Highway was packed as anglers made their way to fulfill their annual stockpiles.
We decided to try a 4.6 mile hike to the viewing platform of the Russian River Falls. Fishing the falls is not allowed because the salmon gather by the hundreds in shallow pools awaiting their attempt at the challenging jump up the falls. This is at least the one fair chance the fish have on their treacherous journey home. The hike was a simple, wide, well used path and we quickly made our way through the forest to see the falls.
Upon arrival, we were immediately rewarded by watching these massive salmon attempting to leap the raging, swirling pools of whitewater. For every dozen or so attempt, one lucky fish would hit it just right and immediately have to start the push again to make the next tier of the falls. This was repeated over and over again through the the gorge until the salmon could finally return to the regular stream flow. We noticed that 2-3 fish would try in quick succession of one another and then there would be a lull for a while. We imagined the fish having conversations of their epic conquest as they returned to the deep pool below the falls to rest and gather their wits again for another Hundreds
After about 20 minutes of watching the fish, we saw a large dark shape move quickly to the water’s edge. We then witnessed a young brown bear surge into the water pool, splashing and lunging in a frenzy trying to snag a salmon for his dinner. Hundreds of salmon immediately panicked and scattered to points unknown in the stream. The bear edged deeper into the stream whipping his head from side to side and pacing back and forth through the creek. He must have been a novice as he seemed to doubt himself and his own power. Fish were everywhere, but he seemed to lack the confidence and aggression to follow through with the kill. He was frantic and wild eyed and rushed out of the water, bounded the hillside in unbelievable speed, and disappeared into the forest as quickly as he had arrived.
We were stunned; we were mesmerized; we were elated; and we were scared! The raw power, stealth and speed this bear had just exhibited was awe inspiring. Our heads swiveled to the forest behind us. AS fast as the at had all occurred reminded us that we were in his territory and he called the shots. Having checked a major Alaskan milestone off of our bucket list, we hiked back to the car, bear spray in hand, smiling the whole way.
Salmon do not actually eat on their way to spawn, so the fishermen essentially try to land a hook in the mouth of a salmon headed up stream. They wade in the 40 degree water with their hip waders on and throw a weighted line into the water, letting it get pulled by the current for about 15 feet before casting it out again. Over and over they make this fluid motion, hoping to time their cast just right to snag a salmon.
Each year a license will allow anglers a set number of salmon per day, dependent on the number of fish calculated to be running through a variety of means. Fish are counted by weirs placed in the water that calculate the number and type of salmon, as well as trained fisheries managers who watch specific locations for evidence of the runs.
There are 5 type of salmon: king, sockeye, coho, silver, and chum. We happened to be in Alaska during the first run of sockeye salmon and the locals were in a frenzy, all jockeying for their prime spots. Parking along the Sterling Highway was packed as anglers made their way to fulfill their annual stockpiles.
We decided to try a 4.6 mile hike to the viewing platform of the Russian River Falls. Fishing the falls is not allowed because the salmon gather by the hundreds in shallow pools awaiting their attempt at the challenging jump up the falls. This is at least the one fair chance the fish have on their treacherous journey home. The hike was a simple, wide, well used path and we quickly made our way through the forest to see the falls.
Upon arrival, we were immediately rewarded by watching these massive salmon attempting to leap the raging, swirling pools of whitewater. For every dozen or so attempt, one lucky fish would hit it just right and immediately have to start the push again to make the next tier of the falls. This was repeated over and over again through the the gorge until the salmon could finally return to the regular stream flow. We noticed that 2-3 fish would try in quick succession of one another and then there would be a lull for a while. We imagined the fish having conversations of their epic conquest as they returned to the deep pool below the falls to rest and gather their wits again for another Hundreds
After about 20 minutes of watching the fish, we saw a large dark shape move quickly to the water’s edge. We then witnessed a young brown bear surge into the water pool, splashing and lunging in a frenzy trying to snag a salmon for his dinner. Hundreds of salmon immediately panicked and scattered to points unknown in the stream. The bear edged deeper into the stream whipping his head from side to side and pacing back and forth through the creek. He must have been a novice as he seemed to doubt himself and his own power. Fish were everywhere, but he seemed to lack the confidence and aggression to follow through with the kill. He was frantic and wild eyed and rushed out of the water, bounded the hillside in unbelievable speed, and disappeared into the forest as quickly as he had arrived.
We were stunned; we were mesmerized; we were elated; and we were scared! The raw power, stealth and speed this bear had just exhibited was awe inspiring. Our heads swiveled to the forest behind us. AS fast as the at had all occurred reminded us that we were in his territory and he called the shots. Having checked a major Alaskan milestone off of our bucket list, we hiked back to the car, bear spray in hand, smiling the whole way.
Vagt Lake
Vagt Lake
Key Features:
-easy day hike off the highway
-great views of multiple lakes
-easy, mostly flat trail
-passes through moose habitat
Key Features:
-easy day hike off the highway
-great views of multiple lakes
-easy, mostly flat trail
-passes through moose habitat
Vagt Lake
On a whim, restless from our car ride, we stopped to explore a random trail on our drive back from Seward to Anchorage. We quickly feel in love with the span of the Chugach from Upper Trail Lake near Moose and Cooper Landing and decided we had to try one of the brown US Forest Service signs marking the local side trails. We quickly scoured our map to see what we could tag on quickly to explore some of the picturesque lakes we were driving past. Vagt Lake fit the bill and we pulled over to begin a solid stretch of our legs.
Vagt Lake sits back off the highway and is a gentle uphill section that winds around Lower Trail Lake. The contour of the mountains across the blue water of the lake is stunning and on a clear sunny day makes for a picture perfect Alaskan experience. There are several spots along Lower Trail Lake to explore the rocky shore and get close to the water's edge. Plan on taking time to putz around the shoreline for a while scoping out wildlife.
The trail then climbs a bit more through the forest alongside a small stream, then crosses through some marshy areas settling back into the small, hidden Vagt Lake. This area had evidence of bear scat, but we didn't stir up any bears. There are several open areas where you can sneak another glimpse of the mountains as you walk through this forested areas. When you pop out of the forest and overlook Vagt Lake, it absolutely invites you to descend and explore.
Vagt Lake has a few well-established camp sites and we found a hidden mini canoe that we utilized to paddle around the lake and get a closer look at the swan gliding through the water, then safely returned it to its hiding place for the fisherman who hauled it in. We didn't stay long due to our travel plans, but this little hidden gem would make for a great short backpacking overnight or day trip adventure if you wanted to spend more time fishing or exploring.
Vagt Lake sits back off the highway and is a gentle uphill section that winds around Lower Trail Lake. The contour of the mountains across the blue water of the lake is stunning and on a clear sunny day makes for a picture perfect Alaskan experience. There are several spots along Lower Trail Lake to explore the rocky shore and get close to the water's edge. Plan on taking time to putz around the shoreline for a while scoping out wildlife.
The trail then climbs a bit more through the forest alongside a small stream, then crosses through some marshy areas settling back into the small, hidden Vagt Lake. This area had evidence of bear scat, but we didn't stir up any bears. There are several open areas where you can sneak another glimpse of the mountains as you walk through this forested areas. When you pop out of the forest and overlook Vagt Lake, it absolutely invites you to descend and explore.
Vagt Lake has a few well-established camp sites and we found a hidden mini canoe that we utilized to paddle around the lake and get a closer look at the swan gliding through the water, then safely returned it to its hiding place for the fisherman who hauled it in. We didn't stay long due to our travel plans, but this little hidden gem would make for a great short backpacking overnight or day trip adventure if you wanted to spend more time fishing or exploring.
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